With appropriate yet minimal care your Atrium will stay in pristine condition with no appreciable deterioration.
Your building has been constructed from quality materials throughout but should any parts prove faulty for any reason they can be replaced. With the passage of time new and better performing items such as ultra clear glass have become available. New products are becoming available with increasing regularity. You may decide to have items replaced to benefit from the latest technology. You may even decide to have your building remodelled or extended – all such changes are possible.
Note: Due to high thermal properties of modern sealed units, condensation may form on the external glass face in some conditions. This is to be expected and is perfectly natural.
The glass roof: The glass used will almost certainly be a form of “Activ” or self cleaning, enhanced insulation unit. This type of glass requires some special attention in order that the external coating is not damaged. All abrasive cleaners must be avoided. Hot soapy water and a soft cloth is recommended.
The uppermost area of glass is sealed to your house with a lead flashing. Over a period of time this oxidises. This is quite normal but may leave a stain on the glass. This may be easily cleaned off with “CRL Bio-Clean Water Stain Remover” and a clean soft cloth.
Drainage from the perimeter of the building is normally via either plastic or aluminium gutters which have been installed without a “fall”. A little water pooling in parts of the gutter trough is quite normal. The trough and any downpipes must be kept reasonably clear of any obstruction. A quick check (late Autumn) once a year should suffice. When checking the gutter for obstructions it is worth checking for leakage from any joints.
The key to “minimal maintenance” is regular inspection. Generally it is only the bottom glazing beads and cills
which show any signs of wear. Touching up promptly when required is very easy and avoids any major
maintenance procedures. If these areas are left to blister so that the wood beneath subsequently bleaches,
restoration will involve sanding back the surface coating and rebuilding is with two or three coats of the
appropriate product. Where a wood tint has been applied it is advisable to re-coat exposed parts (particularly
the top surface of the cills and the bottom glazing beads) every 18-24 months. However, if left to deteriorate
they may require lengthy and expensive restoration.
We will normally keep a record of the finish used on your building for a number of years but we advise that you also keep a record of the finis. Paint or waxoil can be purchased from us when required. Please note that we may have to have a colour mixed specially so there may be a small delay.
In every other aspect the finish is largely maintenance free though when required a quick clean down and one brightening topcoat will normally be quite sufficient. Re-painting is best carried out on a dry warm day. Avoid hot weather!
To ensure that all windows and doors close and locate smoothly and positively all mechanisms used (as far as is possible) will be adjustable. The exact position of your doors may be altered. They may be lifted, tilted or moved either in or out (the attached instruction explains this). To ensure a perfect closing and locking operation the lock keeps are also adjustable. After a short time you will notice a small seasonal change. This is to be expected and has been allowed for within the range of adjustment. Click here to view our guide to adjusting the Nico 4915 3D Door Hinge.
Opening casements are normally hung on friction hinges to avoid the need for stays. If the opening action is adversely affected by a high wind the friction may be adjusted to hold the casement more effectively. A quarter turn on the brass screw head within the hinge will normally suffice. Again the closing compression may be adjusted with the use of an allen key. The closing cams may be turned to exert more or less pressure on the weatherseals.
All such moving parts should be lubricated occasionally. We advise using 3 in 1 oil (Not WD40).
We offer door and window handles with a wide range of finishes. Regular lubrication and an occasional wipe over with a wax or silicon based furniture polish and soft cloth is advisable. Please note that solid brass fittings will eventually tarnish despite a manufacturers claims. To restore the original finish polish with “Brasso”. Some door handles have a small locking grub screw in the shaft below the handle. If the handle appears to be “sloppy” in operation please check the grub screw has not worked loose.
Below your doors there is a self draining threshold fitted to the cill. This can easily fill with mud and debris etc. There are small drainage holes facing outwards to ensure effective drainage. These must be kept clear to work as intended.
Weatherseals are largely maintenance free. They can nevertheless be damaged. Fortunately, they are easily replaced. The seals have a barbed foot fitted into a slot moulded into the timber. Simply pull the damaged seal out of the slot, trim the new one to fit and press firmly into the slot. You may need to tap the seal into place with a small hammer.
Other than physical damage the only other possible fault is “compaction” over a number of years. If the window or door does not seal positively against the weatherseal this will usually result in a draught. There is an obvious limit to the adjustment available so before making any adjustment it is advisable to inspect the seals. Should they have compacted over time they should be replaced with new ones.